Tuesday, 20 March 2012
Sunday, 30 October 2011
Oct 30th Everest Metrological Race 19000 ft
Well as usual; I came up with another stupid idea this time one which nearly cost me big time.
There is opposite everest a peak where there is a webcam and metrological equiptment to measure data of any global warming effects on Mount Everest. It has spectacular views of everest and the Khumbo glacier below and the surrounding area as shown by the pic below I took this morning.
Anyway I talked the scouse taffy and the aussie into see if we could beat the record time by western tourists upto the peak, this of course did not include locals as they can whoop us as they live out here and altitude is the major issue with over 50% less oxygen to replenish your lungs when your doing any form of exercise at 19000ft.
The record which is only for fun was set at 1 hr and 15 mins to the summit. We got up at 4am to see the sunrise over everest or that was the idea anyway.
I FOOLISHLY went for lite clothes and my salomon cross trail trainers for speed. In hind sight a stupid decision as it was minus 25 degrees outside. I should have put my heavier warm gear on for the sub zero temps, but thought go for speed forget the warmth, how I regretted that decision as I got closer to the summit.
We had our 2 main sherpas up there with us screaming abuse and encouragement at us with our head torches on. It is correct when they say due to the lack of oxygen you can only put one foot in front of the other and your out of breath as I tried every trick in the book to get oxygen into m,y lungs as my lungs were simply screaming out for more oxygen where as my legs were fine. At one point I could see that the scouse taffy and the aussie were making a gap between them and me but there was not I could as I simply could not get the oxygen into my lungs and system fast enough, well they are both a fair bit younger than me. At this point Kalden my fav sherpa came rushing down to me and pulled the joker out of the hat, when he got the small oxygen bottle and mask for emergencies and went to put it on my face laughing. That was the kick up the arse I needed.
Approx 300 meters from the summit mark the aussie pulled out with altitude headache, which is meant to be worse than a migraine and can be fatal if left untreated.
By now we had both sherpas with us and both were franticly rubbing both my arms as I really was running on will power and determination as was the scouse taffy except he had thermals on and a proper sub zero jacket. I thought the were going to force me to stop as my arms felt like they were dropping off and I had frost nip on my nose. Its the stage before frost bite jst makes your nose go blacky brown like sunburn.
Anyway we both dropped at the summit trig point and not a word was spoken for approx 5 mins as the sherpas nima who has summitted everest and kalden covered us in them silver survival bags to keep warm as they both jumped for joy.
We later found out that Nimas arch enemy sherpa who also takes everest treks held this for fun record for some of his clients a few years back, who set the record and nima could not wait to get down and let him know we had beat it by nearly 8 mins.
We had a few photos taken up there but to be honest it was so cold like Ive never experianced before ie minus 25 plus the wind shill I was in no mood for posing as I never had the correct warmgear.
Lesson learnt from today curly,
Dont risk speed over safety as Ive never felt pain like that before, undoubtably the hardest physical thing Im ever likely to try not too mention I had 3 cans of lager the night before as well at that altitude is never a good idea he he he.
One of the girl;s sarah came up as well and did it in approx 1 hr 40 mins, she made me laugh later as nima the main sherpa was with her watching us above her and him and said Im going to have to leave you sarah as that idiot Roy is really suffering look at him beating his arms and rushed up to help me. Them lads are super fit at them altitudes though and certainly know what they are doing.
The pic below was me dead beat trying to smile but in no mood or capable of smiling properly after reaching the top, all I had under that wind breaker top was a help for heroes tshirt and instant idiot just add alcohol tshirt on top of the HFH tshirt.
Below me again on the summit just dead no interest in anything as the sherpas are jumping about for joy shouting smile roy
The peak we did WASNT the big one, it was the one on the left, but this was from approx half way up I would guess, taken on the way down.
The one below shows us on way down with the aussie in the centre
There is opposite everest a peak where there is a webcam and metrological equiptment to measure data of any global warming effects on Mount Everest. It has spectacular views of everest and the Khumbo glacier below and the surrounding area as shown by the pic below I took this morning.
The record which is only for fun was set at 1 hr and 15 mins to the summit. We got up at 4am to see the sunrise over everest or that was the idea anyway.
I FOOLISHLY went for lite clothes and my salomon cross trail trainers for speed. In hind sight a stupid decision as it was minus 25 degrees outside. I should have put my heavier warm gear on for the sub zero temps, but thought go for speed forget the warmth, how I regretted that decision as I got closer to the summit.
We had our 2 main sherpas up there with us screaming abuse and encouragement at us with our head torches on. It is correct when they say due to the lack of oxygen you can only put one foot in front of the other and your out of breath as I tried every trick in the book to get oxygen into m,y lungs as my lungs were simply screaming out for more oxygen where as my legs were fine. At one point I could see that the scouse taffy and the aussie were making a gap between them and me but there was not I could as I simply could not get the oxygen into my lungs and system fast enough, well they are both a fair bit younger than me. At this point Kalden my fav sherpa came rushing down to me and pulled the joker out of the hat, when he got the small oxygen bottle and mask for emergencies and went to put it on my face laughing. That was the kick up the arse I needed.
Approx 300 meters from the summit mark the aussie pulled out with altitude headache, which is meant to be worse than a migraine and can be fatal if left untreated.
By now we had both sherpas with us and both were franticly rubbing both my arms as I really was running on will power and determination as was the scouse taffy except he had thermals on and a proper sub zero jacket. I thought the were going to force me to stop as my arms felt like they were dropping off and I had frost nip on my nose. Its the stage before frost bite jst makes your nose go blacky brown like sunburn.
Anyway we both dropped at the summit trig point and not a word was spoken for approx 5 mins as the sherpas nima who has summitted everest and kalden covered us in them silver survival bags to keep warm as they both jumped for joy.
We later found out that Nimas arch enemy sherpa who also takes everest treks held this for fun record for some of his clients a few years back, who set the record and nima could not wait to get down and let him know we had beat it by nearly 8 mins.
We had a few photos taken up there but to be honest it was so cold like Ive never experianced before ie minus 25 plus the wind shill I was in no mood for posing as I never had the correct warmgear.
Lesson learnt from today curly,
Dont risk speed over safety as Ive never felt pain like that before, undoubtably the hardest physical thing Im ever likely to try not too mention I had 3 cans of lager the night before as well at that altitude is never a good idea he he he.
One of the girl;s sarah came up as well and did it in approx 1 hr 40 mins, she made me laugh later as nima the main sherpa was with her watching us above her and him and said Im going to have to leave you sarah as that idiot Roy is really suffering look at him beating his arms and rushed up to help me. Them lads are super fit at them altitudes though and certainly know what they are doing.
The pic below was me dead beat trying to smile but in no mood or capable of smiling properly after reaching the top, all I had under that wind breaker top was a help for heroes tshirt and instant idiot just add alcohol tshirt on top of the HFH tshirt.
Below me again on the summit just dead no interest in anything as the sherpas are jumping about for joy shouting smile roy
Saturday, 29 October 2011
Thursday, 27 October 2011
Thursday 26th Oct,
Had to be checked out by the doctor today as this cold just wont budge and at these altitudes its not good, they yadvised I dont go on this climb today but I insisted. We had to acclimatise today by climbing up a further 2000ft. Back home I would do that for breakfast, but when you are already up at 14000ft and climbing upto 16000ft trust me its damned hard and I mean hard hard hard. I was meant to have left this group yesterday and moved on with another group higher up but they had some kind of tragedy no idea what, so I have had to stay with this group now.
Two of the group backed out this morning as they were exhausted and believe me no shame in that as you do just go on raw determination up here, crap nights sleep, colder digs than my gran parties house and thats saying something, you get out in the middle of the night as you wake up thinking your suffocating but its just your body struggling to get enough oxygen in A MASSIVE 53% LESS OXYGEN up here than at sea level.
Me above this morning ready for the climb up to 16000ft, yep Belinda thats a new jacket, its a Mammot shes a cracker isnt she. The fact Im wearing Gloves and a beanie says it all with regard to how windy and bitterly cold it was.
We set off and instantly I knew I wasnt 100% at my best, but wasnt going to jack in. Believe me its hard to describe in terms for you to understand what its like exerting yourself at high altitude and with a head cold and a cough. For instance you simply DO NOT eat while climbing as you cant breathe properly, you dont talk as you cant breathe properly. Imagine a mask thats tight a round your face with a small 3 mil hole in it for air and then jump on an exercise bike, then you kind of get the idea, damned hard to say the least.
The above is after we lost a few more so far up as they started panicing with the lack of oxygen, which left me mark the aussie and glyn the taff and two girls. Both girls were struggling big time and I mean mega big time and thats not being big headed or anything as its just so awkward up there to breathe. Kalken put me at the back behind the girls to give them tonnes of encouragement as they kept wanting to jack in. Fair play to one of them as she is a smoker and has diabetes. She actually in the altitude had forgot to take an insuline shot, fortunately Belinda had given me tonnes of Dextrose High Energy Glucose tablets, one of which sorted her in minutes.
At this altitude me and the aussie were not larking about or anything it was serious knuckle down stuff as the suns rays are extremely strong up there and you have to wear a hat whether you want to or not and the steepness and footing under foot was some of the worst I have encountered. Anyway we made it to the top and in front of these krauts I spotted coming up from behind us, but just to shattered to mess about as any form of exercise kills you. I got an arm around the shoulder when we got down from the lead sherpa Nima and he thanked me for helping him out today as he had used 2 sherpas up taking the others back down, as he knew I was struggling with a cold and cough, I was quite chuffed with that coming from these hardy bunch.
Like this morning I was larking about with Kalden shadow boxing and after 30 seconds he was in hysterics as I was bend forward gasping for breath, so as he turned around I stuck the boot straight up his jacksie to the amusements of all the other sherpas.
Im not sure but I think we get to Everest this saturday some time, not 100% as I just took in behind the lead sherpa, head down and put 1 foot in front of the other. Loving it though even though its physically hard going.
PS: The only beer they have is lager and its san miguel and its mank mank mank, but when we got down today when I bought me and Kalden one each it tasted great.
Wednesday 26th Oct, 14000ft
Well Im now in seriously high altitude country now. Have seen a quite a few people walking around with masks carrying oxygen bottles with them. I gave these two little kids yesterday a couple of corgi type cars I had in the digs (if thats what you can call them) and there little faces were a picture as you have too understand this is one of the worlds most inhospitable places on earth too live and life as me and you know it simply does not exist. Lady ga ga xfactor etc is alien to these people. They are cut off from the outside world totally if the sun does not shine as the sun is the only form of electric up here. I picked these 2 little kids who cant have been more than 5 years old and squatted down son there feet touched the ground and then stood back up and did that 3 times, on the 3rd attempt I was totally out of breath. 53% LESS oxygen up here, windy does not come close to explaining it and cold, jesus H mary you aint kidding.
Below is how they transport the meat up here, no need to worry about flies etc as we are simply way way too high for flies and insects,
Below is how they transport the meat up here, no need to worry about flies etc as we are simply way way too high for flies and insects,
The porters carry absolutely everything, you name it, it goes up like this meat as there are no roads or airplanes this high up, no internet unless the suns out to provide electric as the internet is via satelitte. This place is one extremely harsh barren freezing cold place to live. The kids carry 25 gallon drums of water 6 miles to put in the toilets to allow you to use a pan to flush the toilets with a pan of water, thats if you dont get frostbite first that is, I kid you not.
Took the below shot of this Buddist Monk sat on a hill meditating with the mountain Ama Dablam behind him.
The below is not a cow shed or anything, its actually the house of Kalden our 2nd in charge sherpa who has never summited Everest as he always sits just below the summit at camp 4 as a last gasp emergency get out of jail for climbers who are in danger of death. He was telling me he has lost count of the amount of times he has climbed up Everest to camp4. I said how do you get these dieing mountaineers down then low enough for the chopper to evac them to hospital. He said by a rope until I can carry them on my back down. He is talking about people who have spent upwards of 30,000 pounds for the privilidge of climbing to the summit and he lives in the house below.
Me and my boy Kalden below with Ama Dablam behind us. And before anyone says why do I look like jessie james the outlaw, its because the air up here is so dry it dries your throat right out and you get whats called the Khumbo Cough, mixed with all the dust that flies around. However I have also managed to pick up a killer heady cold that down in Swinedon wouldnt be an issue but up at this altitude is an absolute crippler.
Saturday, 22 October 2011
Day 6 Mount Everest Hotel
Well today was a absolutely fantastic day. Got up at 5am myself as I wanted to get that killer sunrise shot coming over the snow covered peaks so I had to climb and climb and climb to gain that height and trust me when your sat at home at sea level breathing easily you simply cannot comprehend how hard it is to get oxygen to your legs. Anyway I got a few good shots but not the killer sunrise I wanted.
The below was actually from my bedroom window.
The below was actually from my bedroom window.
We had breakfast and all the others played safe where as uncle royston went for egg on toast, trust me Doddddddgey out here. The whites were red hot yet the yokes were snotty n cold but I was ravenous and munched the lot down with all the girls in the group borking up ave ittt.
We then set off to Mount Everest Hotel with everyone asking me to go to the back and put one of the slow ones behind the lead sherpa called Dashi some young 20yr old champion runner around these parts as he sets too fast a pace with me behind him. Thats not been big headed because believe me it is a damned slow pace but cos of the altitude your screwed, and everyone keeps asking for him to stop so they can catch their breath. Well the pace was that slow I could feel myself getting into a little paddy as it was like baby steps pace but they all said its more to their speed, only problem is we cant get anywhere at that speed so the main sherpa a 27 yr old called Nima (on my right below) who summitted Everest last year and is some kind of hero in these parts told me to go back behind Dashi (on my left below) again otherwise we wont make it in time.
Well the first 8000mtr mountain we saw was Ama Dablam, without doubt the most spectacular looking one of the lot and more often than not mistaken for everest even though it looks nowt like everest. Got some cracking photos of that baby, me and the Aussie mark who has a Canon Evo 600 that cost him 900quid were blasting away like mad men.
Straight after seeing Ama Dablam we saw two other of Nepals 8000mtr giants one of which is the absolute top of the world Mount Everest.Everyone just stood quietly looking as its one of the places on earth you see in your front room with a cuppa tea any day you want, but too have it there towering majestically above you with perfectly clear blue skies really is something else. The other one is Lotse which sits just to the right of Everest.
Everest is sat looking totally insignificant directly above my hat, the little mound. To the right down and up like a little point above my left shoulder is Lotse and right over to the right is Ama Dablam.
Of course they served beer up there yet no one was drinking it as Alcohol and altitude dont mix to well, well no one was drinking it until I turned up that is.Dont worry belinda Ive got a couple of pics of me holding the can, well the aussie has as he backed out. I then took on then challenged our 2 sherpas to a race up and back down a huge flight of stairs for a laugh with a belly full of lager and my hiking boots on. The steps were like them off the rocky film in phillidelfia. The little 20 yr old Dashi hit the top the same time as me but flew back down the bloody things 3 at a time, the local legend came in last.
I then called for a rematch with a load of people watching and laughing at some westerner at altitude with beer in him racing some local champion runner who is only 20. I should of cut my losses as the little shit hit the top neck and neck with me again but killed me going down.
Anyway this is definately the last update until we hit Gorak Shep just near everest base camp.
Friday, 21 October 2011
Day 5 Upto Namche Bizarre 10500ft
Update on the below.
Just went down to the highest pub I have ever been to and there is one more, well actually there is a place at basecamp that sells booze. Anyway Deanno me auld mate, they put me with the aussie as things have being getting a bit competitive you could say, so Im telling him why Im taking a certain shot and he says jeez roy its only a game, I said eh give it a rest mate you lot blame us for everything and your bound to blame me for this as well if it goes pete tong, anyway I had one of them pool nites where I was on fire, shut him up big style.
I then said later on come on lads lets do a runner it will be a giggle to run from the highest pub we have ever being too. Shut you idiot roy at this altitude we wont get 50 yards before we are out of breath and borking our guts up, not to mention it cost 30 quid yes 30 quid for 4 guniess and one lager. So I said to the local barman lets pretend Ive done a runner and youve spotted me. Anyway off I went, I was fine on the flat, but like a thick twat I ran towards our digs which were uphill instead of running downhill, with in 100 yards of going uphill I was dead and this little twat was howlling in hysterics.
Off tomorrow a firther 1 and a half hours up to mount everest hotel, dont get any ideas of granduer, its meant to be run down. But only going up to get some altitude in higher up and sleep back down here at 10500ft before setting off sunday for some seriously serious altitude. Speaking to a zeek hiel kraut tonight who told me he has to spend 5 days here acclimatising as he is suffering big time with the altitude, everyone including him wondered why I found that amusing, a kraut suffering.
1st post
Got up early this morning to set off for a good slog up. Had a good brekkie, lost one due to sickness he is comming up tomorrow. It was a damned hard climb if I dont say myself even though I was right behind the little nepalese guide all the way, tucked in watching his feet. Its the altitude that kills you as you just cant get the oxygen in to your body fast enough so your legs are burning. One of the locals who was one of hundreds who carrys huge amounts upto namche bazaar ie 90kg on his back with just flip flops on his feet when down right in front of me and the lead sherpa. I tell you trying to pick him and his pack up was one hell of a feat. How these little sods carry that weight is unreal. We got to namche bazaar have had a meal and a shower as this is the last main so called town more a trading post type village before we leave for everest on sunday. Have 2 days to acclimatise as a few of the group are suffering with the height. Im off with a welsh lad and an aussie tonight to watch the replay of the rugby world cup 3rd place play off in an irish pub, yep they get them up here as well.
Im absolutely loving it here, you simply cannot describe the views we saw yesterday. Its been raining today and the snow line is approx 300 feet above us and we were told it was snowing at everest today as well. Anyway gotta go gotta get me gaviscon tablest me acid is starting and dont want it to get in the way of my supping tonight.
Belinda Im not getting any text messages from anyone apart from vodafone voicemain text alerts
Just went down to the highest pub I have ever been to and there is one more, well actually there is a place at basecamp that sells booze. Anyway Deanno me auld mate, they put me with the aussie as things have being getting a bit competitive you could say, so Im telling him why Im taking a certain shot and he says jeez roy its only a game, I said eh give it a rest mate you lot blame us for everything and your bound to blame me for this as well if it goes pete tong, anyway I had one of them pool nites where I was on fire, shut him up big style.
I then said later on come on lads lets do a runner it will be a giggle to run from the highest pub we have ever being too. Shut you idiot roy at this altitude we wont get 50 yards before we are out of breath and borking our guts up, not to mention it cost 30 quid yes 30 quid for 4 guniess and one lager. So I said to the local barman lets pretend Ive done a runner and youve spotted me. Anyway off I went, I was fine on the flat, but like a thick twat I ran towards our digs which were uphill instead of running downhill, with in 100 yards of going uphill I was dead and this little twat was howlling in hysterics.
Off tomorrow a firther 1 and a half hours up to mount everest hotel, dont get any ideas of granduer, its meant to be run down. But only going up to get some altitude in higher up and sleep back down here at 10500ft before setting off sunday for some seriously serious altitude. Speaking to a zeek hiel kraut tonight who told me he has to spend 5 days here acclimatising as he is suffering big time with the altitude, everyone including him wondered why I found that amusing, a kraut suffering.
1st post
Got up early this morning to set off for a good slog up. Had a good brekkie, lost one due to sickness he is comming up tomorrow. It was a damned hard climb if I dont say myself even though I was right behind the little nepalese guide all the way, tucked in watching his feet. Its the altitude that kills you as you just cant get the oxygen in to your body fast enough so your legs are burning. One of the locals who was one of hundreds who carrys huge amounts upto namche bazaar ie 90kg on his back with just flip flops on his feet when down right in front of me and the lead sherpa. I tell you trying to pick him and his pack up was one hell of a feat. How these little sods carry that weight is unreal. We got to namche bazaar have had a meal and a shower as this is the last main so called town more a trading post type village before we leave for everest on sunday. Have 2 days to acclimatise as a few of the group are suffering with the height. Im off with a welsh lad and an aussie tonight to watch the replay of the rugby world cup 3rd place play off in an irish pub, yep they get them up here as well.
Im absolutely loving it here, you simply cannot describe the views we saw yesterday. Its been raining today and the snow line is approx 300 feet above us and we were told it was snowing at everest today as well. Anyway gotta go gotta get me gaviscon tablest me acid is starting and dont want it to get in the way of my supping tonight.
Belinda Im not getting any text messages from anyone apart from vodafone voicemain text alerts
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